From Track to Tackle

The first time you feel a bite on the line, you’re hooked. With over 250,000 lakes, countless rivers winding through classic Canadian landscapes, and over 150 species of fish, Ontario is the ultimate freshwater fishing destination.

My experience in fishing has evolved over the years, from memories of scrunching my first wiggly worm on the hook and casting off a dock with my Granddad in Penetanguishene, to reeling in my first real catch from a rocky shore on Bass Lake. Yet catching something worthy of a side of chips and a pint has always seemed out of reach.

It’s always been a goal of mine to fish like the pros, but it can be intimidating being a shore-fishing girl from Southwestern Ontario to cast into the big leagues at a remote Northern Ontario fishing lodge. Enter the Experience Fishing program. Created by Destination Northern Ontario, the program provides inviting and inclusive introductory fishing experiences at first-class fishing lodges across the province. For anglers with limited or no experience, this opens the door to the world of sport fishing and learning the skills needed to reel in a pic-worthy catch in a welcoming and judgment-free space.

Mar Mac Lodge

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

When deciding where to dive into my first remote fishing experience, Mar Mac Lodge in Algoma Country was the obvious choice. Located on 27-mile-long Esnagi Lake just east of White River, ON, the lodge is nestled deep in the Canadian bush, surrounded by unspoiled wilderness and pristine waters teeming with trophy-worthy fish. Their Discover Fishing package was designed for someone exactly like me; in need of some expert fishing instruction, upgraded fishing gear, and basic instruction on how to drive a boat and fillet a fish. The package includes transportation, accommodation, all meals, all fishing gear, tackle and bait, plus two days with an expert fishing guide. The excitement was building as the start of my Northern Ontario fishing adventure approached, and I was definitely in for a treat.

Getting to Mar Mac Lodge; It’s about the Journey and the Destination

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

The journey is definitely part of the experience when you stay at Mar Mac Lodge. With its unique location inaccessible by road, there are two exciting ways to arrive: by floatplane or bush train.

If you’re looking for spectacular aerial views of the area and a little adrenaline pump along the way, then flying into the lodge is for you. Load your gear onto an iconic four-seater De Havilland Beaver, or eight-seater De Havilland Turbine Otter floatplane in White River, and take the quick 25-minute flight. Keep your nose glued to the window as you fly over endless stretches of beautiful boreal forest, then glide smoothly onto the deep blue waters of Esnagi Lake as the lodge appears like a mirage in the distance.

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

The other way to access Mar Mac Lodge is by rail. I chose this option as it’s one of the coolest and most unique train trips in the region. Training at a remote fishing lodge? Yes please! The VIA Rail “Budd Car” is the only diesel engine train left in the world, and traverses the remote 183 km stretch between White River and Sudbury three times each week. The line was introduced to provide access to isolated rural areas of the untamed north, and you’ll often see interesting items being loaded on, from groceries and live bait to full canoes. The train makes stops along the way at riverside canoe route access points, remote areas of vast wilderness, and is the gateway to many wilderness lodges in the north.

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

The Budd Car is only three cars long, with two passenger cars and a hefty baggage car. Departing from White River bright and early at 7 am, the train passes by uninhabited lakes, rushing rapids, and pure Northern Ontario wilderness. While flying from White River is the quickest option, the Budd Train not only provides a unique experience, but is the most flexible for those coming from the South, departing from both Sudbury, ON and White River, ON. The train ride from Sudbury is approximately 8 hours long, while leaving from White River is a short 1-hour trip. There are snacks and coffee/tea available on board, but no meals, so if you’re departing from Sudbury, be sure to pick up some lunch for the ride.

When I arrived at Swanson, the access point for Esnagi Lake, my guide from Mar Mac Lodge was waiting to take me down to the dock. After loading my gear into a beautiful 18-ft cedar-strip canoe, we headed off on the scenic 10-minute boat ride to my exciting new home for the next 4 days.

History of the Lodge

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

The history of Mar Mac Lodge is definitely part of its charm. In the family for over 60 years and three generations, the lodge dates back to the 1950s when the original “Camp 88 Lodge” was first formed by host Debbie’s grandfather, Ivan MacLachlan. Debbie was raised at the lodge, and you can definitely feel her connection to the history of the land and the legacy of the lodge. Debbie now runs the lodge with partner Ken Johnston and continues to invite guests from all over the world to experience world-class fishing in their backyard.

The Cabins and Main Lodge

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Camouflaged into the mature forest landscape, Mar Mac Lodge has a majestic main lodge and eight beautiful pine cabins dotted around the property, all made from locally-sourced wood. My cabin was spacious and well-appointed with a comfy king bed, a brightly lit bathroom with a hot shower, a heater for chilly nights, a picturesque porch, and a fully-equipped kitchen. While all my meals were included as part of the Discover Fishing package, each cabin has a full-sized fridge, coffee maker, stove, dishes and propane BBQ; perfect if freshly-grilled fish will be your go-to meal.

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Upon arrival, I was introduced to my beautiful pine-walled paradise for the next few days, then whisked into the rustic main lodge for a practical and friendly orientation with host Debbie – paired with a much-needed mug of hot coffee. With towering ceilings adorned with classic wilderness décor, fishing memorabilia and historic photographs, the lodge is exactly what you imagine when you think of the wild north. This cozy spot is also the home base for all meals, a gathering place to chat about the fishing wins and woes of the day, to challenge fellow anglers over a game of pool, or to catch a game on the tube. While the freedom of disconnecting is the goal for many, there is also WiFi available if you need to keep an eye on things back home. The main lodge also has a small shop where you can snag some pro lures, replace those jigs you lost along the way, and pick up cool Mar Mac swag.

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Food and Dining

The morning and evening call of the loon signals meal time at Mar Mac Lodge. While I expected great meals, Chef Eric provided some seriously elevated home-cooking that was beyond my expectations. Breakfasts were plentiful and delicious, with plates piled high with crispy butcher’s bacon, eggs and toast, to classic French toast and fresh fruit. Hearty dinners were exactly what I needed after a day on the water, and from roasted chicken with mushroom risotto, to juicy steak and perfectly-roasted Brussels sprouts, every meal was on point. Lunches were packed to go for a day on the water, or a shore lunch kit was brought along to eat the morning’s catch.

Fishing at Mar Mac Lodge; Learning, Improving and Catching

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

After getting a good lay of the land, I headed out for my first foray into the world of sport fishing with my guide, Gavyn. An avid angler from generations of fishing pros, and coincidentally hailing from my backyard in Southwestern Ontario, my fish guru was friendly, professional, and an expert in all things finned.

Having a lot of questions, many of which were likely rudimentary, and being unsure if I was frankly doing anything right, Gavin helped me navigate it all. After a scenic ride along Esnagi Lake in our elegant yet rustic cedar-striped boat, we stopped at a prime fishing spot, slapped on some leeches, and began jigging for walleye. This was my first time fishing with live bait, and over the next few days, I learned a lot about fish appetites, which lures and bait to use for what, when and where. I hooked my first minnow on the jig, which, surprisingly, wasn’t nearly as off-putting as a worm, and by day two, it became second nature.

Next up was trolling for and tackling northern pike. With a change of rods (there were 4-5 high-quality rods to choose from onboard, significantly better than my own), we began trolling for the toothy devils in a small bay. Having never caught a fish over 8 inches in length, I’m familiar with the tug of a smallmouth bass or perch, but the sheer torque of a monster pike on my reel sent the adrenaline north.

Landing the Catch and Gaining Confidence on the Water

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Holding the rod tightly, I cranked in my first northern pike with Gavin at the ready, net in hand. Success! With a pair of very long needle-nosed pliers (which I’ve now added to my tackle shopping list), he taught me how to unhook a fish properly for the first time. Now for the classic photo of me holding the 28-inch beast – but how do you hold a fish like pros do in pics? I had no idea. While grasping the wriggly guy tight, Gavin showed me the proper way to slide my hand in, avoiding the gills and razor-sharp teeth, without harming the fish. With a little belly support and a firm grip, I had my frame-worthy pic.

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Over the next few days, I jigged, trolled, cast and caught both walleye and pike, the size of which I had never thought possible. Time was passed with good conversation, lots of questions, and some incredible wildlife viewing; bald eagles perched high in the treetops, and loons around every corner. With my boating license collecting dust after living in a big city for years, and limited previous experience on the water, Gavin also gave me a refresher (and re-taught me the basics) on how to drive a boat. Not having to worry about making embarrassing beginner moves, and being in open water with no hazards in sight, I gained the confidence I lacked in being able to captain my own mini fishing boat on future adventures.

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Cast to Cast Iron: The Shore Lunch

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

Have you ever been to a remote fishing lodge where you don’t catch your own lunch? One of the highlights of a visit to Mar Mac Lodge is unequivocally the Shore Lunch. After a morning of jigging and trolling, we were lucky to have caught several fish, two of which were now on the menu for lunch. We headed to one of the scenic waterside shore lunch spots on the rocky banks of Esnagi Lake, complete with a filleting station, firepit, grill and some wilderness seating. It was then time to fill in the last gap in my fishing knowledge – how to fillet a fish. With the fire started, potatoes, beans and onions simmering away, Gavin gave me the full tutorial on how to properly fillet a fish. From the first bonk to the delicate removal of bones, it was the missing puzzle piece I needed to catch and cook. The Shore Lunch was both satisfying and delicious, and I was surprised at how much I liked the taste of northern pike.

Photo credit: Sofie Sharom

After honing my angling skills, significantly improving my fishing knowledge, and thoroughly enjoying the peacefulness of this pristine region of Northern Ontario, it’s with a little sadness that I took the final boat ride to the train tracks for the journey home. For anyone who feels intimidated by a sport fishing lodge, who has no or limited knowledge of fishing, but wants to learn, Mar Mac Lodge’s Discover Fishing program is definitely for you. The experience is rewarding, relaxing and restorative, and is the perfect way to learn the fundamentals of fishing while spending time in nature.

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